Rock Climbing...
Climbing Locations
Martian Rock:
Type of Climbing: Bouldering
Directions:
Take HWY 124 out of town (directly across from campus, runs besides Whattaburger). Turn right on Crow Mountain Road after apprx 3miles. Turn left on Sherman Road (apprx 4 miles). Follow the road around the loop and turn right on the dirt road with a "Dead End" sign. When the road curves left, park beside the road in the curve and take the trail in to the rock.
Dardanelle Rock:
Type of Climbing: Bouldering, Rappelling
Directions:
Take HWY 7 South towards Dardanelle. Take the first right after the bridge and follow the brown national park signs (for the dam). When the road begins running parallel to the river, look right for a wide path to the beach (apprx 1/4 mile after road joins river). Park here, there are a few good boulders on the beach and a bluff across the road (lots of bouldering and rappelling... not so much climbing).
Skyline:
Type of Climbing: Bouldering, Rappelling
Directions:
Take HWY 7 South towards Dardanelle. Turn right on the road that leads to Old Post Park, just past Backroads Tattoo (there are brown national park signs). Follow the road until you're almost to the dam, then turn right to go up to the Caudle Overlook. Park at the overlook then walk down the embankment and to the right. There's a well defined trail that leads to some bouldering, a waterfall (when it's a wet season), and a couple of high bluffs good for rappelling.
Sam's Throne:
Type of Climbing: Top Rope, Sport, Traditional, Bouldering, Rappelling
Directions:
Take HWY 7 North towards Harrison/Jasper. Turn right onto HWY 123 about 1 mile past the rest stop. Follow HWY 123 until you reach a sign on the left marking "Sam's Throne" (apprx 8 miles). The new parking area and road have been completed. It makes it more convenient/accessible if you drive a small car (formerly only accessible via 4x4) but may bring more traffic (graffiti, trash, etc) to the area : (
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch:
Type of Climbing: Top Rope, Sport, Traditional, Bouldering, Rappelling, & a zipline (see pic #3 below)
Directions:
Directions to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch can be found on their webpage. HCR is an EXCELLENT climbing location, but expect to pay a $5/day climbing fee and $5/night camping fee. It's worth it though, truly excellent climbing. The Arkansas Climber Rendevous is held here once a year, (see pic #2 below), typically sponsored by Pack Rat of Fayetteville.
Climbing Gear
Gear that I use, along with short reviews (click the item name for a picture):
Rope:
I use a Roca 10.5mm x 50m rope, not dry treated. It's performed well for several years with the only damage being aesthetic fraying of the sheath due to rock wear. It's about time to retire it and I plan on buying a dry treated rope next because of the extra protection provided by the treatment.
Belay/Rappel Devices (BRD's):
I own a Black Diamond Super 8 as well as a Black Diamond ATC. Both are just as versitile as they are well designed. However, I find myself using the ATC more often because of the tendency of the Super 8 to twist the rope. Plus, the ATC makes for a smoother rappel when double rope rappelling from a top rope setup. They're both great pieces but if you only want one, I'd suggest the ATC.
Protection (trad gear):
I've got a full ranged set of Cassin wired, curved nuts. They're great monolithic protection and well made. I don't get to trad climb that often so they're my only trad gear for the moment. When I have the money I plan to invest in some active protection, either Tri-Cams or Ball-Nuts.
Carabiners:
- 2 x Omega Pacific "Five-O" Locking Carabiners : High capacity, 20mm gate opening - My favorite 'biners for setting up anchors.
- 2 x Omega Pacific "Omegalite 4.0" Locking Carabiners : Great feel, 21mm gate opening, but the modified D design causes a slight rope bight when used as an anchor. However, they always hang straight due to this design.
- 1 x Black Diamond Airlock2 Locking Carabiner : The best for belaying. HUGE capacity, HUGE gate opening, my favorite.
- 1 x Omega Pacific Classic Locking Carabiner : Got it for free with a quickdraw purchase... use it as a backup.
- 6 x Kong Bonaiti Ovals : Standard oval carabiners
- 4 x Omega Pacific D's : Standard D carabiners
- 6 x Omega Pacific "Dirtbag" Quickdraws : 4" sewn runner, straight gate carabiner for clipping protection, bent gate carabiner for clipping rope.
I use a cheaply made Austin Clothing Company internal frame pack that I purchased for backpacking. It turned out to be too short to fit comfortably for this purpose (should have loaded it in the store, bad decision) but it works great for the short hikes to climbing areas.